The ancient port town of Marseille (pronounced ‘mar-SAY’, as in ‘today’ and ‘hooray’) has a reputation for being a little bit rough around the edges. But does this mean you should avoid visiting? Absolutely not! In fact, as France’s oldest city, visiting this diverse, vibrant place with its magnificent basilica and glorious view of the Mediterranean Sea, will leave you with memories place layered with intrigue, beauty, and an unforgettable je ne sais pas.
British TIPS team member, Jenni, has visited Marseille twice and explains why including it in your visit to France is a win.
“I enjoy Marseille! In all honesty, Marseille is not always ‘pretty’ (although it is beautiful in many ways), nor is it ‘neat and tidy’. It has a certain grittiness in addition to the beauty it most definitely does have – but that’s actually part of its charm. The layers of old and new, European and African, classical design and modern street art, narrow lanes and open harbour front make for a surprisingly winning combination. It won me over!
“Marseille’s street art scene took me by surprise as there’s so much of it and it’s fascinating, with some well-known artists to be found, like Nhobi and Seek 313, and the little Space Invaders mosaics which are popping up all over France.
“And the food is amazing. Seafood fans like me are spoilt for choice in this port city, and the classic bouillabaisse fish stew (one of my favourite dishes) was invented here. (If you want to see the freshly caught fish and seafood being sold, get up early and check out the little Vieux-Port fish market.) Olive tapenade, orange-blossom flavoured navettes cookies (I could eat them every day), and panisse chickpea pancakes are just some of the treats you’ll find here – yummy!
“On my first visit, a colleague and I wandered through the buzzing Noailles neighbourhood, also called the North African Quarter. It’s buzzing with energy, the air heavy with spicy aromas, and the narrow streets are crowded with products, from fruit and veg to colourful wax-print cloth and basketwork, spilling onto the pavement. It may be cliché to call the city a melting pot, but I can think of no better phrase to describe it.
“So, what about the dire dangers you’ve heard about? I can only speak for myself but, having walked around Marseille’s Vieux Port alone, including nipping out in the evening, I didn’t find it particularly intimidating or scary – no more than other big cities I’ve visited. Would I wander around all alone in the middle of the night in Marseille or go into known dangerous neighbourhoods? No. But then I wouldn’t do that anywhere, including at home in South Africa. My feeling is: just be sensible!
“I chatted to locals about it and they explained that, yes, there are some areas of Marseille that you should best avoid, but these areas are general far outside the town centre, where tourists wouldn’t go anyway. If you stay in the touristic areas like Vieux Port and the Panier, and take the usual precautions, it’s no worse than any other big city. Plus, the city is working hard to improve overall safety too. In a nutshell: use your common sense – as you would in any other city in any other country.
“As for which part of Marseille to stay in… On my first visit, I stayed at a hotel just above the Panier, and, on my second, on the Vieux Port, so I’ve experienced both. And they’re both great. These are the most popular parts of Marseille but they’re not far apart at all – you can easily get from the Panier to the harbour within a few minutes’ walk, so which you choose will really depend on what kind of surroundings you prefer.
“The bottom line is this: Marseille has come a long way and, while it may not be as ‘chocolate-box pretty’ as many other French towns, it has an intriguingly spicy flavour all of its own. And I like it!”
Jenni’s tips for visiting Marseille
- Don’t be afraid of Marseille; just be sensible.
- Take a hop-on hop-off bus tour to get the history and an understanding of the “lay of the land”.
- Wear walking shoes and be prepared for some steep hills.
- Look out for the vibrant street art, particularly in Cours Julien and the Panier.
- Taste the city with a foodie tour of Marseille’s incredibly rich food scene.
- Take a guided walking or bicycle tour of Le Panier and the street art.
- Marseille soap is world renowned so be sure to visit The Marseille Soap Museum and some of the many lovely little soap shops – and take home a few bars for yourself and as great souvenirs. Find out more about this famous soap here.
- Marvel at the stupendous view of the city and bay from the magnificent black-and-white striped Basilica Notre Dame de la Gare.
- In summer, be whisked away by a boat cruise of the bay and along the coast to see the calanques.
- The Vieux Port is beautiful at night – aim to be there as the sun sets and the twinkling lights come on.
- You need at least one full day to explore, preferably two if you’re taking a cruise as well and you don’t want to rush.
- As with any seaside place in France, June to August (summer) are BUSY and you should book far in advance to secure good rates and ensure you have accommodation.
- The Marseille tourist bureau is super helpful and the website is packed with information – use it.
Marseille is a vibrant city that offers something for everyone, and its exciting blend of old-world charm, modernity, and cultural diversity makes it a truly remarkable destination. So, what are you waiting for?
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Note: The above is an account of a personal experience combined with advice based on current information. Individual experiences can differ and information changes, so always double check before you go!
